Saturday, October 18, 2014

Travelling the Dismal Swamp

We raised anchor at 7:30am, planning on a short, 10 mile trip to portsmouth to tie up at at the Ferry Basin, tour the town and enjoy a nice dinner theater for dinner. 

We passed the Navy yard, being reated with views of some seriously large navy boats (carriers, destroyers, etc.)

And then quickly passed through Hampton Roads and into the Elizabeth River with the Ferry basin a few miles down.
But when we got to the Ferry basin it was full of Classic schooners, big and small. Turns out this was the weekend of the annual classic schooner raise, from Annapolis to Norfolk and back, and they were all resting before their return leg. There were forcasts for big winds tonight and tomorrow morning, so open anchorages didn't make sense. The folk I'm with don't reallly like marinas, so we decided we wouldpush on to the Dismal swamp, aiming for the visitor's center located about half way down. The dismal swamp is one of two routes from Norfolk to the Albemarles sound, one called the Eastern Cut and the other the Dismal Swamp. The Swamp (not sure why it has that name..it isnot actually  a swamp) was opened in 1805 as the first part of what would be the AICW ((Atlantic Intracoastal Water way) and in fact was initially surveyed by George Washington who among others was anxious for a safe route for commerce between the North and the  South. 

The waterway through the Swamp is about 50 feet wide, with a depth of from 8- 10 feet and lots of twists and turns. It is lined by tall grass and lots of trees, and not muchdevelopment..Quite nice actually.

We soon came to the first of two locks - The Deep Creek Lock, which raises the level, and so the boats within it by 7 feet. It only opens at specified times about every two hours and we got there about 1 hour early and so just dropped anchor, right in the middle of the waterway, waiting for the lock to open. 

Going in was a bit intimmidating, as we were surrounded by high walls
Looking back from the bow of my boat to Island spirit (Hayden and Radeens Island Packet.

The lock tenderr, Bob (that's him stanind on top of the lock in the picture just above,  was a friendly sort who gaveme lots of help (have to handle lines at the bow and stern more or less simulltaneously) and informed us that the visitors center ((our goal) was full and suggested a free dock, just beyod the lock, that would be much easier and nicer.
It took 45 minutes between entering the lock, tieing up, waiting ffor the water to fill and raise us seven feet and then the exit doors of the lock to swing open.

We decided to take Bobs advice and it was good. Its a nice dock in a pretty setting (a park actually) and only our three boats were there. 

Looking down the dock at the other two boats

After an afternoon rest and some small repairs (we helped each other by kibbitzing)
we met for dinner on Bob and Nina's boat (its the one in front of me in the photo). Beet salsd, followed by beef tacos and refried beens with nachos chips, a box of wine and a dessert of Famous Amos cookies. did I mention we had wine?
Cruisers live well

All in all a most enjoyable day, even if we had to miss a day in Portsmouth

Tommorow we transit the remainder of the swamp (including one more lock) aiming for Elizabeth City. 

As always, a map of the voyage can be seen by clicking a link at the top of the column to the right.







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